Italian luxury fashion brand Prada said it acknowledged the Indian roots of its new footwear range in days after the design sparked controversy in India.
The sandals displayed at Milan Fashion Week last week had an open braided pattern that was very similar to the traditional kolhapuri sandals made in India in Maharashtra and Karnataka Indian states.
Prada describes sandals as “leather footwear” but does not mention its Indian origins, prompting India’s opposition and allegations of cultural occupation.
In response to the controversy, Prada told the BBC in a statement that it realized that sandals were inspired by traditional Indian footwear.
A Prada spokesman said the company “always celebrate craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions” and added that it is “a connection with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, industry and agriculture on this topic”.
Last week, a well-known trade organization wrote to the brand saying the design was commercialized without credit to the artisans who preserved its legacy for the legacy passed down from generation to generation.
According to Reuters, Lorenzo Bertelli, head of corporate social responsibility at Prada, responded to his letter saying the sandals were “in the early stages of design.”
He also said Prada was open to “conversation with local Indian artisans” and the company will organize a follow-up meeting to discuss this further.
Kolhapuri Sandals are named after a city in Maharashtra, with roots dating back to the 12th century.
Traditional handmade sandals are made of leather and sometimes dyed with natural colors, which are very sturdy and perfect for the hot climates of India.
They were granted the Geographic Instruction (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019.
According to the World Trade Organization, geographical indication labels will originate from the benefits or product credit of a particular region or location and are considered to be a sign of authenticity.
After the controversy, many artisans in Kolhapur said they felt sorry for the use of the design by Prada without giving proper honor.
“These sandals are made from the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t use other people’s labor,” Kolhapuri Artisan Prabha Satpute told BBC Marathi.
Sandals cost hundreds of rupees in India, but Prada’s high price tags have angered a little.
Industrialist Harsh Goenka emphasized this, saying that local artisans make little money for the same handmade products. “They lose, and global brands make money with our culture,” he said.
This is not the first time that global brands have been accused of using traditional Indian products without owing to their roots.
At the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, Gucci described the sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt, a gown, which sparked backlash.
In early May, the popular Tiktok trend was criticized for being called the traditional South Asian scarf Dupatta.
However, in Korhapur, some say that the move makes them proud.
“The artisans are glad that someone knows their work,” Korhapur’s businessman Dilep told Reuters.
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