Marc Jacobs revived beauty in his record of the show, calling it “a mass or combination of qualities that pleasing thoughts or senses, and is often associated with attributes such as harmony, proportion, and authenticity of form or color.” This is almost a dictionary definition, but trust Jacobs does not give us anything that is so obvious, basic, or first-class.
Episode has become one of Jacobs’ most enduring and powerful leitmotifs since returning to the runway after the pandemic. Ego Nwodim looks air-filled in a leather pea coat and last season’s Tweed Mini Skirt tonight, a pair of witch pumps with super-cut toe boxes on her feet. Other guests wore the same hyperbolic outfit, and on just one side of theirs, creating an incredible valley effect. Are they right in retro cocktail dresses and platforms, or are we wearing t-shirts, jeans and Birkenstocks?
We know which side of the Valley Jacobs leans toward–the guy who posted ASMR videos with his obsessed nails titled “27 Seconds of Happiness Tips.” But the happiness technique doesn’t quite summarize this 19-looking show. It opened with a pair of red smokers, their pockets (four, not two) were totally different, followed by a pair of white denim jeans, followed by a pair of white denim jeans, darting in the pockets gave them a square bulk quantity. Familiar work makes excellent work by exaggeration – in the first case, the lavender lace top was paired with a lavender lace top, and in the second case the insert top dripped into glass beads and pearls from the inserted bra parts.
Although Jacobs usually work in higher registers, magnifying the model’s assets by adding pads to the back of the roof skirt, twisting the fluffy sleeves into a heart-shaped shape, laying in a six bow and arrow in an evening gown, hundreds of bows and arrows – usually in trompe l’oeil the perper perper perper perper perper perper perper perper pership pership pership pership pership, not three layers. The final look may be the weed of Victorian era – Lily Rose-Depp of Nosferatu – but Jacobs twisted it all up, inflating it here and defying it there, and adding splits to the long skirt.
Even the top fashion designers can create the benefits of simplicity and direct sales in this luxury slowdown. Not Marc Jacobs, never, it’s safe. He always keeps seeking and looking for beauty. The example of this season is a long black lace dress that swept across the body like gloves, except for those exaggerated hip darts and 2D bows at the back of the knees, which are very pleasant.
