How great Soshi Otsuki’s look book has been for his past three series (and how popular they are) is a testament to the designer’s energy to realize his vision. This vision in recent seasons has been the contemporary culmination of the Japanese bubble era, when bank balances were large and suits were larger (and made in Italy). This season is his best iteration to date – men and women dressed in beautifully, broad, oversized cuts that look like the clumsy Zaibatsu work portraits you’ve ever seen – his perception of Japanese masculinity is really fresh, powerful and cool. Over the next few seasons, his mission is to find new ways to keep the momentum alive.
Otsuki’s experience in winning the LVMH award has a big impact on the smaller details of this season. In a part of this year’s eight finalists, he couldn’t help but realize that his clothes were in the speech space compared to others’ clothes (ah, that old Joey thief). “Judges looked at the clothes on the clothes, so this time I wanted to create something, not just based on the look of the clothes in the photo,” he said in a showroom drill in Tokyo. “I’m focusing more on the product this time.” Otsuki is not fair to himself – his fabrics and shawls usually look great both physically and physically, but his efforts to improve the attractiveness of the hanger are wise.
For example: The extra fabric is already built into the inner vest of the shirt (see Look 16) to suggest a hiding tie that can be hidden or exposed according to the way it buttons. “Technically, it’s a styling suggestion, but there’s a bag’s pocket, too. It’s about enhancing the affinity between style and product,” Otsuki said. Deadstock’s kimono silk has been reused into button-up shirts, and 1980s cotton fabrics have been used for most cutting, which reminiscent of the charm and prosperity of the era when designers like improvisation. His goal is what he calls the “quiet intensity” in each piece and achieves that.
The award was announced in September and there was a danger of donation of 300,000 euros, and the pressure was launched. When asked if he was happy to make it to the finals, he frowned, as if crazy. “No, not at all,” he said with a grin. “I want to win.”
