So begins Year of fashion changes. First of the gate: Lanvin where Peter Coppingwho took the creative reins in September was not just commissioned to restart the old name, because, as you know, consumers were bored and simply did not sell bags – basically he had to revive it.
While Lanvin likes to identify himself as the oldest French Couture House in a continuous existence, the use of the word “existence” in relation to the brand in the last decade could stretch this matter. From Alber Elbaz left In 2015, it was more like Maison about supporting life after a number of designers whose names no one could remember his identity that he was driving into an almost overall Irevance. The task of Mr. Copping was to shock it back into the action.
The bets were high, not only for Lanvin, but for the designer himself, who made short points as the creative director of Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta, where he had an unenviable work after receiving Mr. de la Renta Death in 2014And after a collision with the leadership he was fired quite quickly. He spent the last few years behind the scenes in Balenciaga, first as a head of Couture and then by running special projects and VIP dressing.
Lanvin was again a chance to hear his voice and demonstrate what would happen when his signature affinity with a little French flu alleviated the challenge of Demn’s dark vision in Balenciaga.
Made?
Although Mr. Copping’s first show was more like an epiphen injection than defibrillator paddles, she still offered a carefully calibrated dose of adrenaline.
This means that it has provided a convincing statement about what a kind of enchantly twisted sophistication could look like at the beginning of the second quarter of the 21st century. If the Bauhaus residents ended up aboard the technology society and then launched a long day on the future and in the evening of champagne, it could be worn on the LE Corbusier refrigerator on Gin Fizz, that’s what they could wear.
It is not an accident that the geometric beige and black carpet, which covered the floor of the exhibition space, was re -created from the carpet found – Jeanne Lanvin’s bathroom. Mr. Mr. Copping was a photo of the bathroom on the scenes of Mr. Mood Board.
Avoiding the currently popular bait of large sets! And bigger celebrities! Mr. Copping focused on clothes instead. This is the idea that these days focused on social media are increasingly out of (ahem) fashion, but this is part of the playground here. Liberate from viral.
Mr. Copping did, in the Coed Show, which plunged into a strange, muddy color palette of 30 years – bronze and navy and burgundy – and long, Loche line 20 years, with belt and pencil skirts and coconut over -curved down to the upper ankle. The well -known shapes (ditch coat, pea coat, pole bathrobe) were given brutalist treatment: the top of the collar of the sharp razor, but also the shock; Power shoulders are soft but not retirement; The romance of the band dotted with silver and threw a clear shirt and black pants, pleated at the waist. They gently talked about the heritage of the house without drowning.
The result had a nonsensical power that seemed to be easy to shrug, but did not understand acting or the need for easy resolution. Although the garment of men (the first Mr. Copping) seemed more like a fighting support act than the same partner in reinventation, the evening was particularly good. Especially a few gold and black lace halters-one dress, one effectively apron that is worn on top that corresponds to the trousers of 24 carats-a washed silk T-shirt made of ivory covered with black paillettes and paired with black pants. If someone does not wear them for at least one show this season, the stylistic community does not do their job.
The fact that clothing was shown on models of all ages (and not former supermodels brought back to the performative headline, but simply older models that wore their experience elegantly), stressed the feeling that these were clothing for individuals. Those with multilayer lives.
Not to mention that it is possible to learn from history rather than simply repeat it. This is a real awakening.