Last November, Magda Butrym celebrated her brand’s first business decade. She has been ringing high notes ever since, scoring impressive moments on the red carpet and late night TV, especially on her mat numbers. Some recent witnesses: Renée Zellweger wore a black hourglass dress on the Gotham Awards; Natalie Portman wore a cherry-red, traditionally woven comic with structured corset and ruffled hem with Stephen Colbert and a sculpture-like white custom suit at the Met dinner with Stephen Colbert and Dutch top model imaan hammam. A spokesman said that, coupled with April’s collaboration with H&M, sold out almost at noon on the first day.
But if the rose now (with the help of it also her symbol), the designer is once again obsessed with nostalgia. Often, this means having an 80s profile, with one (or two) and cooking recipes: a firm shoulder groove, a cut blazer, a fluffy faux fur coat or a leather bomber, with a figure on the body or a silk lingerie dresser with handmade lace.
Handmade crochets, whether trimmed, covered or full Dilly’s tops and miniskirts, pay tribute to the brand’s Slavic roots. Meanwhile, floral knits, jerseys and denim (for spring, this is a prominent trend for both genders) are also shown. But, literally and figuratively, what stands out here is that Butrym has been using wires to attract petals into the body, bust and dresses: These look special but are also easy to wear, none of them are simple feats.
To succumb to uncertain times, designers tend to what she calls “daily statement wear and tear.” These include a “leg-centric” profile; it would be interesting to see if the semi-smooth leggings cause traction. More notable are some iterations of Hammam’s Met Gala look, and more commercial supplies, such as a T-shirt spinning into a rosette, a tossing scarf detail, a jersey dress in a shawl and a fair amount of candidate jackets, the brand’s bestseller, black leather or small fur leather. These are clutch accessories with curved wooden wedges, new ballet flats or anaconda clutch accessories.
While Butrym may have a special liking for the past, her thoughts are focused on the future. After just closing a three-month pop-up in Soho, the designers turned their eyes to the Paris runway in autumn. And if everything is planned, she will return to New York again to open her first store in Soho. Judging from the scene of the Paris showroom, the brand looks to be upgraded soon.
